Bikepacking Yellowstone April 2016

Bikepacking Yellowstone April 2016

Every spring after the roads have been cleared of snow and before the park opens its gates to auto travel, you can ride your bike on certain roads in Yellowstone. The plan was to meet at Dave’s house at 7:00 AM. Most of the riders were going for a day ride but a few of us the goal was to ride from the West entrance over to Mammoth approximately 50 miles. Google maps says 48.2 from the West Yellowstone Visitors Center to Mammoth Campground. Two SAG wagon drivers Nicholas and Cheradan would transport gear from Idaho Falls over to Mammoth but of course they had to go the long way as the road through Yellowstone was closed to cars.

I chose to be self-supported and use this as an opportunity to dial in my packing and gear needs for trips this summer. This would be my second bikepacking trip and over the winter I bought several new pieces of gear; Sierra Designs sleeping bag, Big Agnes Insulated Q-Core sleep pad, Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 mtnGLO tent, Revelates Picca seat bag, top tube bag and feed bag. True to my first bikepacking adventure I was up until 3:00AM getting everything together. Once I was satisfied with my selection and packing arrangements I set my alarm for 6:00AM. I was excited!!

Everything I think I will need.

I woke up 5 min before my alarm went off, but was in no hurry to get out of bed. Three hours of sleep is just not enough. I rolled out of bed by 6:15 AM, dressed, loaded my bike and gear into the car. Worried I would be late, I stopped by McDonald’s and grabbed breakfast. At Dave’s we waited for everyone to arrive, he gave instruction on what to expect, we determined who was carpooling with who. The group left Dave’s house around 9:00 AM arriving in West Yellowstone about 11:00AM. Temperatures for the park that day were in the low 50’s with 40% chance of rain in Mammoth. It was cold as we stood in the Visitor Center parking lot getting ready. We rolled out around 11:30 AM. Not too shabby for a group of 18.

Piper loaded and ready to go.

Waiting to roll out. 

Last minute repairs. 

photo taken by Dave McGrath

I knew I would not be fast. I fully expected to be the last person rolling into camp that night, but I knew I could make it before the sun went down. I guessed I would average about 10 miles per hour, my ETA for Mammoth was 5 PM. What a fabulous opportunity to enjoy a National Park without the masses and traffic. The day was perfect for riding, not too hot and not too cold once I started Pipers wheels rolling. I received many curious looks from cyclists proceeding in the opposite direction. Suprised several riders when I passed them, as the fattires have a very satisfying rumble when in motion. I was told I sounded just like a car.

Our group of 18 spread out quickly as everyone settled into their preferred pace. Only 8 out of the 18 would ride all the way to Mammoth. Dave and Sharon on the tandem bike, Amanda snapping lots of pictures along the way, Ross enjoying the ride and whoever’s company was convenient, Paul chasing after Speedy Gonzales (Jonathan) and The Road Runner (Brianna), then me on Piper slow and steady. Besides at the beginning, the only time I saw Speedy Gonzales and Road Runner was after they doubled back to check on the groups progress finding us at Iron Springs, then camp that night. Shortly after leaving Iron Springs Ross, chose to ride my pace and keep me company for a spell.

Elk

More Elk

Bike-selfie

Terrace Springs

Gibbons Falls

Quick Pit Stop

Iron Springs (Only time I saw Brianna and Jonathan)

photo by Amanda

 As we climbed up and out of Norris Geyser Basin we encountered several cyclist traveling the opposite direction that were dressed in costume or in very psychedelic outfits. All of them in great spirits, turns out they were from Missoula, MT and they were riding from Mammoth to West to spend the night. My favorite costume was the red lobster with a cape. Ross and I pulled over at Roadside Springs to stretch our legs and eat lunch. As we ate lunch and enjoyed the continuous parade of Missoula cyclists. A plain dressed couple on bikes road by, as the guy looked us over and did a double take of my fatbike, he said “You see the strangest people around here!” Ross and I both bust up laughing! I guess in his world it is not acceptable to wear a costume while riding your bike and certainly not acceptable to be on a fatbike. I think my favorite aspect of this trip were the many comments I received regarding my fatbike. Yes, I am crazy, I do know this. I think next time I will wear a costume while riding the fatbike through Yellowstone.

Crab Man from Missoula 

Roadside Springs.... LUNCH!!!

Back on the bike I passed Roaring Mountain by 4:15 PM, and reached the start of Kingsman Pass 45 minutes later.  One thing I don’t doubt, is how sturdy and stable Piper is on the downhill, even loaded with gear. Still, I kept the speed reasonable but passed the closed gates 6 minutes and 42 seconds after I started downhill. I found Paul waiting in the parking-lot just past the closed gates. We waited for the rest than rode to the campground arriving at 5:25 PM. It took me 5 hours and 45 minutes to go 50 miles from West Yellowstone to Mammoth. I averaged 8.5 miles per hour.

Camp

My new tent. Good so far. 

As we pulled into the campground we could not find Speedy Gonzales or The Road Runner and the SAG wagons were absent.  A quick pass through camp turned up nothing. SAG wagons should have been there, especially the other two cyclists. We didn’t see any of them as we passed through Mammoth. It was a little disappointing, as we were expecting our recovery drinks. I did have cell service, spotty, but was able to send out a text letting the drivers know we had arrived. I set up my tent and had a snack. Soon the SAG wagon showed up and our restless bunch begin to settle in for the night. Dave and Sharon made delicious beans and rice dinner. While dinner cooked, some of us checked out the Boiling River, it was a rather interesting soak. I can’t say that I really like this hot spring, either your buns are burning or your freezing your toes off. It is hard to find the “perfect spot”, in fact if you announce you have, you are sure to be scorched before you complete your sentence, and then promptly frozen out of your “perfect spot”. Regardless of the erratic temperatures it sure felt good to rinse off all of the sweat and salt and just relax for a bit. In a hiking book I recently read, it said that the Boiling River Trail is on the 45^th Parallel, this means you are standing exactly half way between the North Pole and the Equator. After the river soak we gobbled up dinner but decided to hold off on making the peach cobbler until breakfast.

Boiling River. 

Beans and Rice! Delicious. 

Not sure when exactly I crawled into my sleeping bag, but it wasn’t long before I was zonked out. I did wake up in the early morning shivering a bit. I remember thinking “put your puffy on” but fell back asleep before I could muster the energy to do anything about being cold. Next time I woke up it was around 4:00 AM when I heard a shriek from the tent next to me, followed by lots and lots of laughter! I had ear plugs in, and still this startled me right out of my perfect slumber. Not exactly sure what happened, but at least there was laughter, I walked to the bathroom and back. The noise carrying on the entire time, so as I walked past the tent I told them they were noisy. They were good neighbors and quieted down.

Around 7:00 AM I woke up and made me some coffee, a couple of elk were munching on grass in the camp across the way. Dave busied himself with making steel cut oats and when the dutch oven was cleaned out, I assembled the peach cobbler. Sharon made several pots of coffee. Breakfast was delicious.

Early morning visitors.

Waiting for the peach cobbler to cook. 

I knew it would take me longer to ride back to West Yellowstone than it took for me to get to Mammoth, after packing my bike I made sure my help was not needed in camp. I set off around 10:30 AM, layered up because it was quiet cold and overcast. I stopped at the general store to adjust my layers. Getting Piper and gear up the hill warms a girl up fast. I snapped a picture of Piper and Liberty Cap at 11:00 AM. As I continued up the hill Speedy Gonzales and The Road Runner flew by me, I wouldn’t see them again until dinner that night. They waited 3 hours for us to make it back to West Yellowstone. I made it to the top of the big climb, pedaling the entire way by Noon! What took me less than 10 minutes to bomb down took me a full hour to climb up. I snapped a couple pictures with Sharon and Dave and left them while they waited for the rest of the crew to come up the hill. They all caught up with me at Apollinaris Springs, where we snacked before continuing on.  I stopped briefly at Roaring Mountain to find a little girls room, and turn on some music, I needed motivation to keep my legs pumping the cranks. As I sailed through Norris Geyser Basin, a small group of the returning Missoula cyclists cheered me on with barley recovery drinks thrust in the air. I might have stopped and asked for a recovery drink but I didn’t want to sacrifice any gravity fed momentum at this point, because there was one more good climb ahead.

Top of Kingsman Pass photo by Dave McGrath

At the Gibbons Falls parking lot, Dave and Sharon were taking a little break, talking to a father son duo, as I pulled up a longside, the father said good bye and they headed back towards the West entrance. I got Piper rolling and zoomed past the two. A few minutes later when I hit an uphill and Piper slowed down to our usual turtle crawl, they caught up to me. The father said “Holy shit, I did not know a fatbike could go that fast. You passed us like we were standing still and we could not catch up to you.” I smiled at him. “Downhill is my favorite” was my reply. He asked me all about the gear I was carrying and they both seemed interested in the idea of bikepacking. But then who wouldn’t be!

As they pulled ahead, I could feel my motivation to stay on the bike decline severely. Sharon and Dave pulled up next to me, Sharon expressed that she was ready for the ride to be over. I agreed. We planned on eating lunch at Terrace Springs and wait for Ross, Amanda, and Paul. They detoured to Norris Geyser knowing it would take me longer and they could catch up. Dave, Sharon and I arrived at Terrace Springs by 3:30 PM. We were probably there for about 20 min before they joined us. We ate and then passed out on the board walk! It felt good laying there in the sun. The temp was almost cold enough you wanted a thin pullover on, but warm moist air would waft off the springs gently rolling over us. It felt like a comfy blanket being laid on top of you as you drifted off to sleep. Who else can say they have slept on the boardwalks in Yellowstone! Unthinkable in the tourist season.

Terrace Springs

Nap Time!

We were back on the road by 4:40 PM. One last group together where Dave took a picture with the Bison in the background and I begged for pain killers, Paul gave me two 500 mg Motrin because my sit bones could not sit any longer. At this point everyone was done with this ride and they all took off toward the gate leaving me to pedal it out on my own. I detoured onto Riverside Drive, thinking this would make the view more interesting, I was very glad I was on the fatbike because the road still had a small accumulation of snow-pack to navigate.

Drugs please! photo by Dave McGrath

 photo by Dave McGrath

photo by Dave McGrath

The last 20 minutes were excruciating. I knew I was close to the end but really had no idea how close. My ass had gone beyond being numb, back to extremely painful. My legs were too tired to stand up and ride, I wanted to get off and walk, but that would take longer than just telling all of it to shut up and pedal dammit! I had had it. I took a few really big deep breaths, and I told myself, three more songs, in three more songs you will see that gate. I closed my eyes to block out the pain, opened them and kept a steady pedaling pace, one song, two songs, every corner that came into view I would think "around that corner I will see the gate." I had passed the sign letting me know I was in Montana. The thing is, I was really quiet happy, It had been a fantastic two days. It was just at this moment I was hurting, I was hungry, I was tired. This is never a good combination, you are guaranteed to have a Chere’ meltdown and I almost did. As I tried harder not to cry I started to hyperventilate. But hallefuckinglujah there was the gate!

Within 30 feet of crossing the gate my music died as if on cue with the end of the third song. I was then greeted by my fellow cyclist singing me a victory song as I crossed under their hand bridge! 7 hours and 45 minutes after starting that morning I was done. Not only did my music die on cue, but so did the GoPro. 

WE MADE IT!!!!  photo by Dave McGrath

West Yellowstone to Mammoth		Mammoth to West Yellowstone
Departure	11:30 AM	Departure	10:30 AM
Madison Junction	1:00 PM	Liberty Cap	11:00 AM
Terrace Springs		Top of Kingman Pass	12:00 PM
Gibbons Falls	1:30 PM	Apollinaris Springs (Snack)	12:50 PM
Iron Springs	2:15 PM	Roaring Mountain	1:45 PM
Norris Basin	3:00 PM	Norris Basin	2:20 PM
Roadside Springs (Lunch)	3:30 PM	Iron Springs	3:00 PM
Roaring Mountain	4:15 PM	Gibbons Falls	3:20 PM
Obsidian Cliffs	4:30 PM	Terrace Springs (Lunch and NAP!!)	3:30 PM
Top of Kingman Pass	5:00 PM	Madison Junction	5:00 PM
Closed Gate	5:06 PM	Riverside Drive	5:50 PM
Mammoth Campground	5:25 PM	West Entrance	6:15 PM

And if you would like to give up about 13 min of your life watch my video. 

First Trip Bikepacking July 2015

Island Park, ID to Elk Lake Lodge, MT 

Bikepacking Trip July 14-15 2015

We all know I love adventure with my favorite form of adventure being on a bike and exploring a new trail. I have wanted to try bikepacking for a long time. Usually, I don’t let much stop me when it comes to my adventures but the thought of doing a bike trip on my own wasn’t appealing especially in bear country of Idaho, which is pretty much everywhere in the mountains here. I have been trying to get over this fear of camping solo in the woods, which I really haven’t done yet anywhere. I will get past this and do a solo trip eventually but for this trip I found a willing adventure buddy who LOVES bikepacking. Micheal Woodruff, who is a member of Wydaho Gravel Grinders a group that inspires others to try bikepacking. Their motto Live, Love and Ride… I whole heartedly agree with that!

I picked the dates of the trip and not knowing really where to go or where I wanted to, I left those details for Micheal to plan. His plan was for me to meet him and his friend Bryon at 7:00 AM in Island Park at Robin’s Roost. We would head north and follow the Continental Divide route over Red Rock Pass up to Elk Lake, Montana. I was told this was approximately 25 miles to the lake roughly 50 miles round trip. I was a little concerned about doing 50 miles on a loaded fatbike across single track but when I asked, Micheal said it was mostly dirt road riding on one of his favorite sections of the CDT. I felt confident I could handle this with no problem. I was super excited!!

Getting ready for this trip was bit more challenging than I expected. Having moved twice in the last 18 months NOTHING is where it should be or easy to find plus the Monday before we left I was busy with kids and running errands and helping with the high school mountain bike team. Around 7:00 PM Monday night I got a message from Micheal, his friend had an emergency with his dog and wouldn’t be able to join us. Could I meet him 7:00 AM in Ashton at the Frostop Drive-In to pick him up, then we would head on up to Island Park? And could I give him a ride back home when we were done with the trip? Of course!

After I got back from team practice I busied myself with packing. This took me until 3:30 AM Tuesday morning to finish. I tried my best to pack light and only take things I would use or need. My usual mode of operation is to take more crap than necessary! I kept going over all of my gear and eliminating items. When I was satisfied with my choices I set my alarm for 5:30 AM to give myself 30 minutes to shower and an hour to drive to Ashton. I didn’t sleep much from 3:30 to 5:30 because as usual with a big trip I get nervous about being on time and I am always nervous when I ride with new people. I was worried that the whole trip would be awkward because he would be frustrated with my slow pace. Is he a bike Nazi that has to stay on schedule, or laid-back and whatever will be will be guy? Just my usual stupid anxiety I have when riding or adventuring with new people.

I made it on time to the Frostop, parked my car, and started eating breakfast at which time I received a text from Micheal. He was running late but they were on their way. This gave me time to actually enjoy breakfast instead of wolfing it down. Bryon and Micheal arrived at 7:30 and we loaded Micheal’s bike onto my car, told Bryon sorry he was going to miss the trip and hoped his pup felt better soon.

I don’t remember exactly when we made it to Robin’s Roost I would guess around 8:00 AM. I still had to strap everything to my bike. Being new to bikepacking one thing I lacked was a seat bag, Micheal had one for me to use. I quickly transferred my clothes from the dry bag I had to the Viscacha Revelate seat bag and Micheal attached it to my seat post. I strapped the other dry bag full of gear to my handle bars and stuffed my frame bag with other items I deemed essential, locked the car and carefully stowed the keys in my Camelback. Micheal bought some last minute provisions from Robin’s Roost and off we went on our adventure shortly before 9:00 AM headed west on Sawtelle Peak Road with dinner reservations at Elk Lake Lodge for 6:30 PM.

Micheal enjoying the view as we climbed up Sawtelle Mountain

Approximately 2.5 miles into the ride the pavement ended and we passed through a gate onto a gravel road that winded up the mountain. We climbed up past several fields of beautiful wild flowers. Even stopped once to take in the view of the highway below. Micheal said more than once “the road should head more north soon” we kept climbing up and up. We kept climbing and I kept telling myself, that whatever you go up you get to go down, so I didn’t mind the climb so much knowing it would eventually end. I felt really slow and worried I was holding Micheal up. I hate being the last person or the slowest in a group of riders but my fatbike is 40 pounds and loaded with at least 35 pounds of gear plus my own weight that I must pump uphill. On a lightweight bike I am not a fast climber, I was moving slower than a snail’s pace on this loaded fatbike. One thing is for sure, this set up makes for good resistance training going up a hill. I was worried at this pace we would never make Elk Lake Lodge by 6:30 PM! I kept at it. Soon the nicely packed dirt road turned into freshly grated dirt. This did not help my forward momentum or the burning in my quads. I felt that my pace was slow enough walking would be more efficient. Now it was one foot in front of the other pushing the bike forward. The Tetons looked beautiful from this vantage point I felt sure we would lose sight of them soon as we rocketed down the other side of this mountain towards our destination. Each corner that came into view I just knew that would be where the down would start and my hard work would be rewarded with a fun coast downhill. But with each turn we kept climbing. Soon Micheal tiring of my slow ascent disappeared ahead of me and that was fine.

A variety of wild flowers were blooming every where. 

I pushed on, up and up and up. The road took a sharp turn to the right and I was certain this would be where the down would start. I rounded the corner there sat Micheal on a rock and as I looked past him I saw more road leading up and up, it led up to some serious switchbacks right up to the radio towers on top the mountain. I thought to myself this kinda sucks but at least I can take a break for a minute I am starving!! Breakfast felt like ages ago and my stomach had been growling at me for the last 45 minutes. As I pulled out a snack Micheal said “we needed to go back… we missed the cross roads… here let me show you on this map.” Wait, what did he just say?

I was warned and chuckled quietly inside. You see before this trip I was chatting with Danny and Terry Kelly and they told me of a hike-a-bike Micheal led Danny on up past Upper Palisades Lake. It was a ride that had Terry concerned she would never see Danny again. Micheal is kind of known for short cuts that turn into epics. Prior to leaving on this trip I had looked at a map of the intended route and felt sure there was no way he was going to get me lost. The roads were all dirt or paved roads and the route was simple. He did change the route from what he had originally told me. Instead of riding the old highway, he wanted to try a different road that connected over from Sawtelle Peak Road to Red Rock Pass. Straight forward, but I guess not because we missed the crossroad.

We had peddled 8 miles up the 13 mile road that leads to the top of Sawtelle Mountain which is 9,906 ft high. Robin’s Roost elevation is 6,290 ft and were we stopped was roughly 8,400 ft.  On the map this road ends at the top, no road down the backside towards our destination. Neither of us even recalled seeing a crossroads. I joked about just finishing the climb. We were more than half way to the top. Maybe I was a little too sarcastic because Micheal asked me if I was mad at him. I found that question to be highly amusing! Me, mad, because we are 8 miles off course? First, I was warned. Secondly, you have to do better than 8 miles off course on a bike, even if it is all up hill. My mind reminisced over some canyoneering adventures such as bush whacking for hours straight up out of the bowels of Zion from Birch Hollow on an intended short cut that saved us from needing a permit to go through The Narrows. Please! Just get the permit! Or 120 foot rope that disappeared into seasonal muddy lake in Mystery Canyon. That rope… vital to exiting the canyon. Thankfully, between the 6 of us combined, we carried enough webbing that we pieced together the needed 120 foot length to use as a pull rope or we would have been stuck for the night in the canyon. That isn’t so bad except it really worries the shit out of folks at home who expected us to return that afternoon. This adventure was a simple detour, easily corrected.

We finished up our snack break flipped the bikes around and bombed back down the hill searching for our missed crossroad. My fatbike may be slow as a snail going up that hill but don’t get in my way going down! Micheal said we were going 40+ mph downhill. Even loaded like it was that fatbike felt stable and I am pretty sure I squealed with joy the entire way down. Yes, all the way back to the gates still no crossroad. First thought in my head as I rolled through the gates.  SHIT! I have to turn around and go back up, how in the hell did we miss this road twice!!  Now I was mildly annoyed. As we rolled back through the gate there was a road on our right and a parking area to our left.  As we pulled into the parking area to check the map again, Micheal noticed and ATV trail that exited the parking lot heading north, and here was our missed crossroad. Two hours and 16 miles later, we still had 20 miles to Elk Lake Lodge.

ATV trail that goes from Herriman State Park to Henry's Lake

Little pond on the ATV trail

The next 5 miles I loved! I wish the whole ride was like this. Two track ATV trail through the trees and relatively flat which was a nice reprieve from the Sawtelle climb. This ATV trail met up with Red Rock Pass Road and we took a left onto the pavement. We made really good time after getting over the first hill on Red Rock Road which winds around Henry Lake towards the pass and eventually turns back into a dirt road. Just past Spring Eagle Ranch we saw a fellow divide rider from Louisiana. His name was Dave a regular bikepacker who runs a bike shop out of his home by appointment only. As we parted company and wished Dave a good ride he told me “Don’t let this be your only bikepacking trip!” I assured him it would not be.

You can see Sawtelle the peak on the left we were more than half way to the top. 

Dave from Louisiana and Micheal 

The road started climbing toward the Continental Divide and as it did my saddle became insufferably troublesome, actually quite painful. I also started noticing my ravenous hunger. This is ridiculous! I feel constantly hungry on this ride! I took a long hard look at this hill leading to the top of the pass. I was going off of less than two hours of sleep. Already rode 8 miles up Sawtelle Road burning my quads out, and couldn’t sit in the saddle to pump up hill. The struggle was real!  I decided that walking would be more efficient again. I awkwardly pushed the bike up the hill with an apple in one hand and caramel sauce in the other as I snacked to quiet my growling stomach. A cowboy in a truck from Montana pulled up alongside me and offered a ride but I politely declined and plodded on. Soon I spied Micheal waving his arms to let me know I was near the top. I made it to the Divide a quarter after two. I rested a bit while Micheal told me about another route variation he wanted to try. I groaned a little on the inside. We took the mandatory divide pictures with our bikes and then we continued the journey.

We reached the alternate road Micheal wanted to take about 3PM. Turns out is crosses Red Rock Creek but the bridge had been washed out. A beaver had dammed the creek and this structure looked like you could walk across. I really didn’t want to find out and lucky for me neither did Micheal. I was too tired for more short cut adventures. We arrived at our destination an hour later!

 

I quickly became very enamored of Elk Lake Lodge. Thoughtfully situated on the shores of Elk Lake and encircled by peaceful beauty of the Montana Mountains. The places is rustic and gives of an air of comfortable hospitality that you long for. You feel home the second you roll up. How would it be to have a place like this? Would it satisfy my appetite for the need to be in the outdoors? I feel so caged anymore and suffer from the need for adventure to escape the day to day stress. Would I chose this over wanderlust? I choose wanderlust.

Elk Lake Lodge

One of the cabins available to rent for the night.

Jake and Laurel Delong gave us a warm welcome as we propped our bikes up against the lodge. Laurel offered a cold beer and a chair to enjoy the late afternoon as we chatted with our hosts. I sunk into this chair and every muscle started to relax and tired exhaustion begin to set in. When Laurel returned she had two frosty mugs and the beer! This was the best beer I have ever earned!! But with every delicious cold sip I knew this was going to backfire on me.  We talked for a while with our hosts then walked down to the lake edge. I took my shoes off and soaked my feet in the cool water from the dock. Micheal sat on a bench near the water’s edge quietly taking in the evening. To me this was one of those satisfying moments in life.

Time to find camp. We started up a rather large hill and by this point in time the lack of food, exhaustion and that cold beer started taking affect. The plan had been to set up camp and ride back for dinner. Once I reached the top of the hill and looked down to where Micheal wanted to camp, I wanted to cry. That was a steep hill and we had to come back up and down to get to dinner, then back up and down to get to bed. At this point I was ready to lay down on the side of the road and sleep in the dirt. Micheal decided it was best to ditch our gear at the top behind the sage brush and go back for dinner, retrieve our stuff after dinner and set up camp. Brilliant!! No complaints from me.

Back at the lodge we took a seat in the living room and waited for our reservation. I tried holding a conversation with Micheal but in order to keep the conversation moving at a decent pace he had to finish my sentences. I can only think of a couple other times in my life I have been this exhausted. I chuckled as he apologized for finishing my thoughts. Actually, he was doing a really good job. We took our seats at the dinner table and I struggled to keep my eyes open. In fact, I am pretty sure I did fall asleep for a split second. Dinner was some of the best food I have ever had. Bacon wrapped filet mignon with sautéed mushrooms, baked beans and steamed vegetables. Anyone who knows me, knows I can’t stand mushrooms. I ate every mushroom on top of that filet and eyed the ones on Micheal’s plate! Was I just that hungry? No, Laurel is a fantastic cook. Dessert was a Hummingbird cake, so moist and light and full of sweet deliciousness. I highly recommend this place. Outstanding service, food, and overall atmosphere.

With a full stomach I perked back up and rode right up that hill without issue. We grabbed our gear and noticed a herd of cows had decided to make the stand of trees Micheal wanted to camp in their home for the night. Quite frankly neither of us wanted to share close quarters with the cows. It was getting dark so the very next stand of trees we came to Micheal declared “One good thing about hammock camping is you don’t need level ground to set up camp!” Micheal showed me how to hang my hammock and set up my tarp to keep any rain off. The trees we hung my hammock between were too close together, but given the straps I had, we didn’t have much choice. I was so tired I don’t think it really mattered except at one point in the night I almost fell out of the hammock. Not the most comfortable night’s sleep, but not the worst. I am glad we set up the tarp because it did rain a bit in the night.

Camping on a hill! Made possible with hammocks. 

Nothing beats up cup of coffee in the morning to get you warmed up and going. 

Little gestures  that make you happy.
Laurel is a gracious host.

We woke to grey skies, made coffee and I ate the rest of last night’s steak for breakfast. Laurel must have given me Micheal’s leftovers because there were more of those tasty mushrooms, yum!! As we packed it started to softly rain. We quickly gathered all our stuff hoping to put it away before getting too wet.  I stowed my Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup that Laurel gave me yesterday in my gas tank bag. A delightful treat for later.  The hill we had to ride was steep enough even Micheal pushed his bike up. I remember looking at the sky hoping it would not dump on us. I was sick and tired of cleaning caked on mud off of my bikes for this years bike season. I did not relish the idea of riding the bike today after becoming so sore the day before. I gritted my teeth and eased onto the saddle, to my surprise I was not tender and even my legs had a renewed strength. 

Started off the ride by pushing our bikes back up the steep hill. 

Jake and Laurel Delong

I took one last photo of the lodge and cabins and we started the grind home. The weather held, it was cloudy and cooler temps all the way back to Robin’s Roost. The ride back was pretty uneventful. We did meet two more Divide riders as we rested at the Divide sign. The return trip only took 4.5 hours as opposed to the sevenish it took to get to Elk Lake Lodge. I am not going to lie, it is easier if you don’t climb 2,200 feet in 8 miles before trying to ride the 25 or so miles to your destination. In all we biked roughly 80 miles. Pretty good for my first bikebacking trip. My favorite section of the ride was that 5 mile “lost crossroad”. Maybe one day I will plan a bikeback trip where all I do is ride along the ATV trails in Island Park and when my legs don’t want to go any further that is where I will camp.

Return trip home. Skies were moody. 

Scottish Highland Cow

Fatbike lean on the ground

Return stop at the Divide.

Lunch at Frostop before taking Micheal home.